Thursday 9 September 2010

Ayasofya

Spoke to Nadia at 1pm which was lovely. After breakfast I walked down to Ayasofya but wasn't allowed in because I wasn't part of a tour group. I sat in the park for a while reading about the sights in the Sultanahmet then went and had a look at the Basilica Cistern - spectacular underground space, full of soaring columns and water brought in via aquaduct from (apparently) 29km away.

Finally made it inside Ayasofya after our phone call at around 2:30pm. Superlatives are wasted on it. It's like nothing else on Earth and doesn't seem possible - the upper dome really does just float above everything else. Some of the mosaics were quite well preserved, in spite of a few centuries underneath plaster and paint.


The mosque visible from where I'm sitting is the former church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus, I think - I'll go and have a look at it in a little while.




How shameful that the Swiss people voted to ban any further minarets in Switzerland. If they were genuinely worried about changed skylines in the cities, they could've opted to limit the height of any new tower, whether minaret or anything else. There are already laws in place for this. The down side of direct democracy - the bigots get to have a say too.



Bought a bread bun and some boerek from a little shop just up the street from here and practised my teshukuer ederim. I guess tomorrow I'll visit the Blue Mosque and perhaps wander up to Topkapi palace. It's nice not trying to see as much as I can - it's times like right now, sitting on the rooftop, that do me the most good.

Breakfast on the terrace

A decent night's sleep, a shower and a fine breakfast and I'm feeling very content. My cough is still there but isn't too irritating just yet. I've run out of lozenges and throat spray so it might be a trying day. Nadia is calling at 1pm today - can't wait to speak to my darling love. Being separated from her like this just makes so clear to me how much I love her, cherish her, value her. She is my whole life, she fills my heart and my soul.

I walked to Ayasofya last night before dinner, down along the length of the old hippodrome. What a place. All of my senses were more alive and alert than they've been for years. Past the great Blue Mosque and finally to the venerable seat of wisdom herself. It was once again quite overwhelming. A  man walked beside me and spoke Turkish but when I apologised for my lack of understanding, he laughed and said he thought I was Turkish because of my facial hair. We chatted for a few minutes before he heading back to the new town - wishing me welcome in Istanbul.

Right now I'm once again alone here, gazing out on the Sea of Marmara as the ferries ply their way to and fro. Hundreds of gulls circle overhead, squawking at each other.