Great is Diana of the Ephesians!

This keyboard has a problem - the keys u, j, n and the right space bar don't work the first time - I  have to disconnect and reconnect once or twice before they start working.

It's been a big day for mass tourism in Ephesus and surrounds. Our tour started at Mary's house on top of a hill overlooking modern Selcuk and ancient Ephesus. There were two cruise ships full of overweight tourists - apparently there'd been 7 ships on one day in August. We had about 12-15 coaches in the car park. All for a tiny, non-descript, mostly reconstructed 1st century house which probably has nothing to do with Jesus' mother. But there's a tradition going back at least to the 4th century so that's something in itself I suppose.

Ephesus was next and reminded me of the Roman Forum or the worst of the crowds in Egypt. Made the whole experience basically worthless. The crowds were truly amazing - I tried to turn them to good use by squinting and imagining it was market day in the old city but there was something particularly aimless and hostile about the wanderings of these modern-day pilgrims that didn't allow that fancy to stick. I didn't find Ephesus at all inspiring - Pergamum yesterday was much better, simply because there was hardly anyone there and because the views were stunning. At lunchtime (mass-produced all-you-can-eat place, although the food wasn't bad) I read a few chapters from Acts about Paul and his time in Ephesus - 2 years in all, before he headed to Jerusalem to meet with the real leaders of the church and thence went under arrest to Rome, where he was executed, at least according to tradition. Poor old Demetrius, who saw his souvenir livelihood slipping away and tried unsuccessfully to organise a riot to get rid of these pesky followers of the way (they weren't called Christians until later). The Christian symbol here was the 8-spoked wheel, which spelt out the letters in ICTHUS, the fish. Ingenious. The cross didn't come into use until much, much later - I'm guessing closer to Constantine's time in the late 3rd century.

After lunch, we visited the museum in Selcuk and then had a brief stop to admire what's left of the temple of Diana - great is Diana of the Ephesians! So said Ozymandius but here it's grass and earth that's buried things rather than sand. If only Demetrius had known, he could've switched to silver statues of Jesus, John, Paul and Mary and made an absolute killing - his descendants certainly aren't hesitating to ply the visiting Christians with trinkets galore. Somehow, though, I think those early followers of the way wouldn't have been at all interested in such trivial rubbish - their hearts set on grander, deeper things.

Now I'm drinking my first Efes Pilsen and waiting for the bus to Bodrum, which leaves at 5pm. I'm feeling exceedingly chuffed and smug about this little keyboard - I've become quite used to it and think it's probably done away with my notebook for good. About 3 hours to Bodrum, so hopefully not too painful, followed by a 5 minute walk to the hotel - hopefully also painless thanks to my GPS.