Apocalyse Now

Spoke to Nadia when I got back to Nikolas' - spoke for about half an hour again. Hope she'll be alright on the flight over. I then had a little siesta, followed by a trip into Skala to get some postcards and stamps. After this I rode over the hill towards Meloi beach but turned right at the little chapel and headed down to Aspri beach instead. It was just lovely - secluded, empty except for a young Japanese couple. I went in for a swim and put my goggles on and swam over to the front of some holiday units right on the water. There were large numbers of sea urchins nestled amongst the rocks and many small-to-medium-sized fish swimming around.

Since then I've been out to dinner and had some dolmades followed by a whole stuffed calamari - done in the local style. Really very good.

Some things I've been meaning to write down: I was impressed by how little I noticed Turkish men checking out women walking by. Plenty of Turkish women dress quite provocatively but I think the men were more respectful in general than what a bunch of Aussie blokes would be. Greek men remind me more of Australians!

I didn't stay that long in either monastery today. I  think the religiosity of it all just left me a bit cold. It's fascinating that cultures like this develop and that traditions are kept alive over such a long time. But my cathedral has for its ceiling the heavens, for its floor the earth beneath our feet. I am closer to the Divine sitting on a beautiful secluded beach, smiling at a friendly little dog, or puffing and panting up a steep hill whilst wondering at the crystal blue of the Aegean washing the rocks below. I think the weary attitude of the priest at the Monastery of St. John also saddened me. It's a sacred place and every day between 8am and 1:30pm, it is flooded with disrespectful idiots. I don't know why they allow it.

There was one women, Greek, at the monastery of St. John who prayed with anguished groans, prostrating herself in front of the icons. There is great power in this for those who believe.

I'm feeling strangely flat this evening - can't think why. It's been difficult speaking to Nadia without having a private space in which to talk and because of the infernal delay on the line. She said today that she doesn't want to do this again - I agree and I've already said it myself. I don't want to be away from her at all, certainly not for two whole weeks. I miss her and want to share everything with her, including the experiences I'm having right now.

I think the real reason I'm feeling flat is related to what I've just written - it's because what I've been doing today seems a bit hollow without Nadia here to share it with.

I also forgot to mention, there's an Italian family staying here with a little 3 year old girl - it's been nice hearing her cute little voice speaking Italian - reminds me of the impossibly cute little Nadia of cappuccetto rosso fame!

Paradise found

This place just gets better and better. I had a good night's sleep although I seem to remember a cock crowing the whole night through, plus sundry dogs and donkeys joining in on the chorus. Had yoghurt and honey and a fresh fig for breakfast, washed down with pommegranate juice, before setting out on the daunting ride up to the monastery. I parked the bike and walked up the trail to the cave of the Apocalyse but as it turned out, it would've been more easily accessible from the road. A chapel has been built onto the side of the cave, enclosing it, and a monastery built around the site. It was interesting to see it and I could imagine John huddled in there scribbling away on some papyrus, haunted by the shocking violence of his madman's visions.

I continued up via the road to Hora and the main monastery at the top of the hill - well worth the effort for the spectacular views and the charming little whitewashed town, with its narrow cobblestoned alleyways and overflowing cascades of bougainvillea. The main church in the monastery was interesting, with its icons and frescos, but not all that old, I think 18th century. The usual band of ignorant and insensitive tourists were there, dressed inappropriately, taking photos when they shouldn't have and talking loudly and stupidly. Some people think it's the younger generation who have no respect for heritage but looking at these people, you can hardly blame 'the youth of today'.

I then enjoyed the downhill run to Grikos and Petra on the east side of the island, which is where I'm sitting now. The water was once again cool and refreshing and wonderfully clear.

The restaurant I'm sitting in is mentioned in Lonely Planet and uses its own home-grown organic produce. I've just had a home-grown rabbit (or part thereof) - delicious, sorry bunnies.

This place right here is about as close to perfection as I can imagine - there's no traffic, just the sound of the tiny waves on the pebble-sand beach. Time has stopped, nothing moves in a hurry, the restaurant staff are talking softly behind me. If I were to spend a couple of weeks here, my head would be in the right place again and I'd have enough inner peace to last me 6 months back in the un-real world of 40+ hour weeks and life in the 'burbs.