This place just gets better and better. I
had a good night's sleep although I seem to remember a cock crowing the
whole night through, plus sundry dogs and donkeys joining in on the chorus. Had
yoghurt and honey and a fresh fig for breakfast, washed down with pommegranate
juice, before setting out on the daunting ride up to the monastery. I parked
the bike and walked up the trail to the cave of the Apocalyse but as it turned
out, it would've been more easily accessible from the road. A chapel has been
built onto the side of the cave, enclosing it, and a monastery built around the
site. It was interesting to see it and I could imagine John huddled in
there scribbling away on some papyrus, haunted by the shocking violence of his
madman's visions.
I continued up via the road to Hora
and the main monastery at the top of the hill - well worth the effort for the
spectacular views and the charming little whitewashed town, with its narrow
cobblestoned alleyways and overflowing cascades of bougainvillea. The main
church in the monastery was interesting, with its icons and frescos, but not
all that old, I think 18th century. The usual band of ignorant and
insensitive tourists were there, dressed inappropriately, taking photos when
they shouldn't have and talking loudly and stupidly. Some people think it's the
younger generation who have no respect for heritage but looking at these
people, you can hardly blame 'the youth of today'.
I then enjoyed the downhill run to Grikos
and Petra on the east side of the island, which is where I'm sitting now. The
water was once again cool and refreshing and wonderfully clear.
The restaurant I'm
sitting in is mentioned in Lonely Planet and uses its own home-grown organic
produce. I've just had a home-grown rabbit (or part thereof) - delicious, sorry
bunnies.
This place right here is about as close to
perfection as I can imagine - there's no traffic, just the sound of the
tiny waves on the pebble-sand beach. Time has stopped, nothing moves in a hurry,
the restaurant staff are talking softly behind me. If I were to spend a
couple of weeks here, my head would be in the right place again and I'd have
enough inner peace to last me 6 months back in the un-real world of 40+ hour
weeks and life in the 'burbs.
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